AC Condenser Maintenance

While we are enjoying the mild Spring weather, it’s a good time to do some basic maintenance on your air conditioner unit. Checking coolant (refrigerant levels), can only be done by a professional. However, cleaning your AC condenser is an important step to maintaining an AC’s efficiency. For exterior units- Shut off the electrical power to the air conditioner (flip breaker, or pull out the disconnect). Check that there is no rust in your electrical panel (would indicate water intrusion and should be inspected by an electrician). AC units need unobstructed air flow. So remove any debris from around the AC condenser unit. Using a garden hose, spray water over the condenser unit and coils. In a pump-sprayer, follow manufacturer instructions in mixing a coil cleaner (like Nu-Brite, CalClean) with water; and spray the condenser and coils. Then rinse off with water. This process will clean a significant amount of dirt from your AC condenser, making it more efficient. Additionally, if your AC coil fins are damaged, you can straighten them with a fin tool. Straighten fins greatly improves air flow. Once completed don’t forget to restore power to your AC. Lastly check your filter inside your home (usually situated in the return air vent), replace if dirty.

Hot Water Heater Maintenance

Performing annual maintenance on your hot water heater (HWH) will prolong its life, prevent leaks, and help protect your plumbing.

Sediment collects in the HWH impacting its efficiency- and will literally disintegrate the heaters interior lining that causes leaks.

To complete this maintenance task you’ll need a hose, bucket, gloves and towel.

1. Turn off the power to the HWH- usually gas, or if electric, the circuit breaker.
2. Turn off the in-take cold water to the HWH.
3. Attach a hose to the water drain spigot at the bottom of the HWH. Place the other end of the hose to where you want the water to drain, e.g. a garden bed, laundry sink… depending on the size of your HWH, it’s going to be a lot of HOT water, at least 30-40 gallons. Turn open the spigot (sometimes you need a flathead screwdriver to do this).
4. Open the pressure release valve to allow air in to the tank to assist with complete drainage.
5. When drained, turn on the water to flush any remaining sediment until water runs clearly.
6. Refilling the tank- close the drain spigot and remove the hose.
7. Close the pressure release valve.
8. Turn on the water to allow the tank to be filled.
9. Once the tank is full you can turn back on the gas, or electricity. Do not turn on power/heat until tank is full otherwise you may damage the heating elements.

There is one more step you can take that may double the lifespan of your HWH; and that is to every five years replace the anode rod inside the heater. The anode rod’s job is to attract corrosive elements in the water, thereby protecting the HWH lining (that’s why some call it a ‘sacrificial rod’). Here is an informative video on replacing a HWH anode.

Reduce your pressure... eat cookies!

Home water regulator

A water pressure regulator valve is usually positioned on a home’s main water supply to regulate water pressure from the water company/City to the home. When inspecting homes, I attach a pressure gauge to a spigot or faucet to measure a home’s water pressure. Ideally you want the pressure to be under 80psi. Why? Too much pressure may cause pipes to leak and damage water using appliances. Too little water pressure may cause you frustration trying to have a shower!

Making sure the water pressure regulator is working and set correctly is usually an easy fix. A pressure gauge costs about $5-$10, and an adjustable wrench (maybe a flathead screwdriver) is all you need to adjust the regulator. Click here to view a “how-to” video.

Let them eat cookies!

It’s Girl Scout Cookie Season and my Troop is selling cookies to raise funds for our activities and service projects. Please contact me with a list of cookies you would like to order. We will deliver to your office free of charge! Appreciate your support.

To schedule a home inspection please call me 805-896-8301, or email me (I might even turn up with a complimentary box of cookies!)

Sincerely,Kelsey

www.CA Pro Home Inspection.com

Servicing Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties, California

Light Up Your Christmas

'Tis the season to hang lights!

A few tips to make the job easier and safer...

Before installing your lights, plug them in to ensure they work.

Never use nails or tacks to secure lights.

Plug lights in to a GFCI outlet (protects from over current), with a cover.

Use a timer for your lights; make sure they are off before you go to bed, or if you are away from home overnight.

If you are using extension chords, make sure they are rated for outdoor use. Make sure your Christmas lights are also rated for exterior use.

Tape chords down that cross any walkways.

Know your electrical load. Amps x volts = Maximum wattage.

Find the amps by checking the outlet’s corresponding breaker (in the breaker box). Multiply the number of amps by 120 (most homes have 120 volts that run through an outlet). The result is the maximum wattage a circuit can handle. A 15-amp circuit can handle lights totaling 1,800 watts, and a 20-amp circuit can handle 2,400 watts.

25-bulb strands can be daisy chained (usually up to 3 strands). Never daisy-chain strands with 100 lights.

When bulbs burn out, you need to replace them, otherwise more current is driven to the other bulbs, which will ultimately shorten their lives, and potentially overpower them.

Lights that use C7 and C9 bulbs are coned-shaped, slightly larger, and if a bulb fails it only effects itself.

LED’s light strands will save energy and won’t overheat. You can also daisy-chain more of them together.

For every 1 foot of tree height, you need 100 lights. String lights in the center of the tree so it looks like it is lit from within.

Always follow manufacturers guidelines in regard to safety instructions.

To store lights, find a stiff piece of cardboard, then cut a slit every inch all the way down on both sides. Start wrapping at one end and go from end to end, sticking light strings in each slot as you wrap the lights. Another trick is to wrap them around an old ball- wrap 5 times in one direction, turn the ball 90 degrees and repeat.

If you are looking for some Christmas light hanging inspiration, look no further…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjmNd12dmfE&list=PLDDF5790468E72335

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

CA PRO HOME INSPECTION, Santa Barbara, CA

To schedule a professional home inspection, or for maintenance issues, please contact us at-

blogger@caprohomeinspection.com

w 805-284-9437
* Same day reports* AHIT Certified* Insured* Santa Barbara based home inspector

Why Won't My Heater Turn On?

How to troubleshoot a furnace that will not start.

Winter is just around the corner and people are starting to turn on their heaters/furnace… but no heat!

These steps may seem simple, but I’ve been called out multiple times already to look at 'broken' furnaces that just needed their pilot lights relit. Here is a checklist to run through-

1. Is the gas to the furnace turned on? The supply pipe handle should be parallel to the gas line.
2. Check the pilot light, and follow the unit’s instructions to relight (FYI clean any dust away that may have accumulated over the summer).
3. Has the circuit breaker to the gas or electric unit tripped? Reset if necessary. 
   
4. Check the thermostat. For electrical thermostats-
   1. Make sure the heat function is on and the thermostat temperature is set at least 5 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Works… great! Fails… next…
   2. Turn off power to the furnace, remove the thermostat cover check the battery, fuse (replace if expired or damaged), and clean off any dust with a small brush or pressurized air. Turn power back on and attempt to turn the furnace on. Works… great! Fails… next…
   3. With the power off, unscrew the red and white wires from their terminals (or the wires labeled “R” or “Rh” and “W”), and wrap those wires together. Turn power on. If the furnace ignites, then the thermostat is defective (replace thermostat).
      1. If the furnace does not light, then check that there is continuity (electrical test to determine if an electrical path can be established between two points) from the wires to the furnace. If continuity test fails, call a qualified technician to assist.

Hope this information helps you and your clients. And if you need help lighting pilots or testing a thermostat, I’m available to help :-)

Sincerely,
Kelsey

CA Pro Home Inspection, Home Inspection & Maintenance
To schedule a professional home inspection, or for maintenance issues, please contact me at-
blogger@caprohomeinspection.com
w 805-284-9437

* Same day reports
* AHIT Certified
* Insured
* Santa Barbara based home inspector

Pool, hot tub and spa safety

In my inspections it is common to find gates to hot tubs that do not latch properly. Many homeowners mistakenly don’t consider hot tubs to be a pool area.

The Safety Code defines a swimming pool as any swimming or recreational bathing over 18 inches deep, which includes hot tubs and spas. All home owners, must comply with the 2007 Swimming Pool Safety Act of the California Health and Safety Code. 

Broken self-closing device on gate to hot tub.

The act requires homeowners to install at least one of seven drowning prevention safety features on new or remodeled pools.

1. The pool shall be isolated from access to a home by an enclosure (see 'enclosure requirements' below).
2. Removable mesh pool fencing in conjunction with a gate that is self closing and self latching, and can accommodate a key lockable device.
3. Pool shall be equipped with an approved safety cover.
4. Residence equipped with exit alarms on those doors providing direct access to the pool.
5. All doors providing direct access from the home to the swimming pool shall be equipped with a self-closing, self-latching device with a release mechanism placed no lower than 54 inches above the floor.
6. Swimming pool alarms that, when placed in pools, will sound upon detection of accidental or unauthorized entrance into the water.
7. Other means of protection, if the degree of protection afforded is equal to or greater than that afforded by any of the devices mentioned above.

A note about enclosure requirements-

• Gates must open away from the pool.
• Be self closing and self latching (device no lower than 60” from the ground)
• No more than 2” gap between the ground and the gate.
• Any gaps in the in the fence must be no wider than 4”.
• Exterior surface free from any characteristics that could be used as a foot or hand hold for a child under the age of 5 to climb over.

Gate latch is not self closing or self latching.

So, fortunately gate latches are an easy fix for the home owner- but definitely an important one!

To schedule a professional home inspection please visit CA Pro Home Inspection, servicing Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties, ph (805) 284-9437, blogger@caprohomeinspection.com

Reference:

http://www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/water/Documents/RecHealth/SwimmingPoolSafetyAct.pdf

What's Up With My Loo!

Many people seem to have a phobia about lifting their toilet tank cover- but many problems with noisy toilets (the loo!), constant running water, and overfilling are really a very quick homeowner fix. So take a peak under the toilet tank lid with us...



RUNNING TOILET
Often people will 'jiggle' the toilet handle (trip lever) to stop toilet water running.

1. The problem is usually the toilet flush valve (flapper) chain getting caught under the flapper, preventing the flapper from sealing the tank drain. Simply adjust the length of chain so it dose not get caught in the flapper.
Sometimes the float-ball may also get caught on the flapper chain, requiring you to slightly bend the float-ball arm to prevent the chain from catching.

2. The float-ball may be set too high, causing the toilet to continually fill with water. You can lower the height of the float by adjusting the screws on top of the ballcock; or for floats attached to the ballcock, via adjusting the rod height (see pic below).

3. Finally the plastic flush valve (flapper) may have worn and not sealing the tank drain- so replace the flapper.

Link to good photo instruction on how to fix these toilet issues.

Float on ballcock: adjust rod by pinching clip

Float ball: adjust via screws on top of ballcock

NOISES WHEN TOILET FILLS
Usually this means it is time to replace the ballcock- it's not sealing correctly so is creating noisy vibrations. This is a really helpful video link to replacing a ballcock (easy 10 min job).

So don't put up with a malfunctioning toilet... take a peak under the lid and usually you will be able to fix the problem in under 5 minutes!

------
Thanks for reading our blog. To schedule a home inspection please visit CA Pro Home Inspection, servicing Santa Barbara, Ventura and Los Angeles Counties, ph (805) 284-9437, blogger@caprohomeinspection.com