What's Wrong With This Panel?

Wire size? Cloth sheathing? Aluminum wiring? Crowded?
No.

This electrical panel box does not have a main disconnect breaker to switch off all power. There must be a way to switch off all electrical service to the home.

There are some instances where not having a main breaker is acceptable, as long as power to the panel can be shut-off in 6 throws or less (the "Six Throw Rule"). But this panel has 12 breakers, and has been upgraded (i.e. no 'grandfather rule'... and even so, you would be well advised to install a main disconnect breaker).
 
In my home inspection report I listed this issue as a 'Potential Safety Hazard' and recommended that a licensed electrician evaluate the panel.

CA PRO HOME INSPECTION

AC Condenser Maintenance

While we are enjoying the mild Spring weather, it’s a good time to do some basic maintenance on your air conditioner unit. Checking coolant (refrigerant levels), can only be done by a professional. However, cleaning your AC condenser is an important step to maintaining an AC’s efficiency. For exterior units- Shut off the electrical power to the air conditioner (flip breaker, or pull out the disconnect). Check that there is no rust in your electrical panel (would indicate water intrusion and should be inspected by an electrician). AC units need unobstructed air flow. So remove any debris from around the AC condenser unit. Using a garden hose, spray water over the condenser unit and coils. In a pump-sprayer, follow manufacturer instructions in mixing a coil cleaner (like Nu-Brite, CalClean) with water; and spray the condenser and coils. Then rinse off with water. This process will clean a significant amount of dirt from your AC condenser, making it more efficient. Additionally, if your AC coil fins are damaged, you can straighten them with a fin tool. Straighten fins greatly improves air flow. Once completed don’t forget to restore power to your AC. Lastly check your filter inside your home (usually situated in the return air vent), replace if dirty.

Hot Water Heater Maintenance

Performing annual maintenance on your hot water heater (HWH) will prolong its life, prevent leaks, and help protect your plumbing.

Sediment collects in the HWH impacting its efficiency- and will literally disintegrate the heaters interior lining that causes leaks.

To complete this maintenance task you’ll need a hose, bucket, gloves and towel.

1. Turn off the power to the HWH- usually gas, or if electric, the circuit breaker.
2. Turn off the in-take cold water to the HWH.
3. Attach a hose to the water drain spigot at the bottom of the HWH. Place the other end of the hose to where you want the water to drain, e.g. a garden bed, laundry sink… depending on the size of your HWH, it’s going to be a lot of HOT water, at least 30-40 gallons. Turn open the spigot (sometimes you need a flathead screwdriver to do this).
4. Open the pressure release valve to allow air in to the tank to assist with complete drainage.
5. When drained, turn on the water to flush any remaining sediment until water runs clearly.
6. Refilling the tank- close the drain spigot and remove the hose.
7. Close the pressure release valve.
8. Turn on the water to allow the tank to be filled.
9. Once the tank is full you can turn back on the gas, or electricity. Do not turn on power/heat until tank is full otherwise you may damage the heating elements.

There is one more step you can take that may double the lifespan of your HWH; and that is to every five years replace the anode rod inside the heater. The anode rod’s job is to attract corrosive elements in the water, thereby protecting the HWH lining (that’s why some call it a ‘sacrificial rod’). Here is an informative video on replacing a HWH anode.