Hot Water Heater Maintenance

Performing annual maintenance on your hot water heater (HWH) will prolong its life, prevent leaks, and help protect your plumbing.

Sediment collects in the HWH impacting its efficiency- and will literally disintegrate the heaters interior lining that causes leaks.

To complete this maintenance task you’ll need a hose, bucket, gloves and towel.

1. Turn off the power to the HWH- usually gas, or if electric, the circuit breaker.
2. Turn off the in-take cold water to the HWH.
3. Attach a hose to the water drain spigot at the bottom of the HWH. Place the other end of the hose to where you want the water to drain, e.g. a garden bed, laundry sink… depending on the size of your HWH, it’s going to be a lot of HOT water, at least 30-40 gallons. Turn open the spigot (sometimes you need a flathead screwdriver to do this).
4. Open the pressure release valve to allow air in to the tank to assist with complete drainage.
5. When drained, turn on the water to flush any remaining sediment until water runs clearly.
6. Refilling the tank- close the drain spigot and remove the hose.
7. Close the pressure release valve.
8. Turn on the water to allow the tank to be filled.
9. Once the tank is full you can turn back on the gas, or electricity. Do not turn on power/heat until tank is full otherwise you may damage the heating elements.

There is one more step you can take that may double the lifespan of your HWH; and that is to every five years replace the anode rod inside the heater. The anode rod’s job is to attract corrosive elements in the water, thereby protecting the HWH lining (that’s why some call it a ‘sacrificial rod’). Here is an informative video on replacing a HWH anode.

Why Won't My Heater Turn On?

How to troubleshoot a furnace that will not start.

Winter is just around the corner and people are starting to turn on their heaters/furnace… but no heat!

These steps may seem simple, but I’ve been called out multiple times already to look at 'broken' furnaces that just needed their pilot lights relit. Here is a checklist to run through-

1. Is the gas to the furnace turned on? The supply pipe handle should be parallel to the gas line.
2. Check the pilot light, and follow the unit’s instructions to relight (FYI clean any dust away that may have accumulated over the summer).
3. Has the circuit breaker to the gas or electric unit tripped? Reset if necessary. 
   
4. Check the thermostat. For electrical thermostats-
   1. Make sure the heat function is on and the thermostat temperature is set at least 5 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Works… great! Fails… next…
   2. Turn off power to the furnace, remove the thermostat cover check the battery, fuse (replace if expired or damaged), and clean off any dust with a small brush or pressurized air. Turn power back on and attempt to turn the furnace on. Works… great! Fails… next…
   3. With the power off, unscrew the red and white wires from their terminals (or the wires labeled “R” or “Rh” and “W”), and wrap those wires together. Turn power on. If the furnace ignites, then the thermostat is defective (replace thermostat).
      1. If the furnace does not light, then check that there is continuity (electrical test to determine if an electrical path can be established between two points) from the wires to the furnace. If continuity test fails, call a qualified technician to assist.

Hope this information helps you and your clients. And if you need help lighting pilots or testing a thermostat, I’m available to help :-)

Sincerely,
Kelsey

CA Pro Home Inspection, Home Inspection & Maintenance
To schedule a professional home inspection, or for maintenance issues, please contact me at-
blogger@caprohomeinspection.com
w 805-284-9437

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