Safety Glass 101

I inspected a duplex last week that had glass sliding doors. The doors were in poor condition, but I was more concerned that they did not contain safety glass. Safety glass is designed to minimize physical damage in case of glass breakage. Safety glass must contain an identifying label that can not be removed (acid-etched, sand blasted etc). Safety glass is usually laminated or tempered. 

 

Laminated glass is two layers of glass sandwiched with a laminate. The laminate is the reason why the pieces are held together when it is broken. 

Sometimes you can identify unlabeled laminate glass by examining the reflection of your hand or some other object- you should see two different images.



Tempered glass is almost 5 to 10 times stronger when compared to its untempered counterpart. Tempered glass shatters into tiny fragments with rounded edges when it’s broken. It can take a higher load and deflects further before breaking, but can not be reworked.

Tempered glass can also be identified through polarized glasses when viewed from an angle. Black lines, a result of the heating and cooling process, should appear as your angle from the glass surface increases when you approach the glass’s side.

However, when uncertain, and in potential hazardous areas, I always assume that glass is not safety glass and recommend further assessment.

If you are interested in more information on when safety glass is required, here is a link to the International Residential Code R308.4

CA Pro Home Inspection, serving Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties

Inadequate combustion air

COMBUSTION AIR

There are many different elements I inspect when examining gas furnaces- leaks, missing drip-leg and shut-off valve, rusting, inappropriate materials, burner flame patterns, heat exchanger damage etc. Another thing I check is the presence of combustion air.

In older homes, I find gas furnaces in small, poorly vented closets, but sometimes, even an enclosed garage with a gas water heater, gas furnace, and gas dryer may not have adequate combustion air.

For a furnace to work properly, it must have an adequate supply of combustion air to ‘feed’ the furnace. Gas furnaces also require a secondary source of air (‘draft air’) to maintain an appropriate exhaust - to help maintain chimney draft.





What’s an adequate supply of combustion air?
Standard of practice is 50 cubic feet of air for every cubic foot of gas (i).

If a gas furnace is rated at 100,000 BTU’s per hour, it will burn approximately 100 cubic feet of gas per hour (one cubic foot of natural gas contains about 1,000 BTUs).

Therefore, it will need approximately 5,000 cubic feet of combustion air.


Total appliance BTU’s / 1,000 x 50 = cubic feet required


As you can see, a small closet that has no door vent, and a small opening in the ceiling, may not have enough combustion air for the furnace to function correctly.

Why is this important?
Inadequate air intake can lead to increased levels of carbon monoxide (CO- a poisonous gas). Secondly, a lack of ‘draft air’ is likely to result in backdraft. This means combustion product (CO) can go back in to the room, rather than up the chimney/flue (because the room is under low pressure having been starved for air because its been pulled in to the furnace for the combustion and dilution process).

To test for backdrafting, you can put your hand in to the base of the draft-hood, you should be able to feel cool air being drawn in. If you feel hot, wet exhaust air, then spillage/backdrafting is taking place. Rust around the draft hood may also indicate a chronic backdrafting problem.

Making sure a gas furnace (and other gas appliances) have appropriate combustion air is crucial to the safety of the home owner.

Helpful links-
http://osfm.fire.ca.gov/strucfireengineer/pdf/bml/Frequently%20asked%20questions%20on%20Carbon%20Monoxide.pdf

http://www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm
 
Source (i): Principals of Home Inspection, Carson Dunlop & Associates, 2008

Light Up Your Christmas

'Tis the season to hang lights!

A few tips to make the job easier and safer...

Before installing your lights, plug them in to ensure they work.

Never use nails or tacks to secure lights.

Plug lights in to a GFCI outlet (protects from over current), with a cover.

Use a timer for your lights; make sure they are off before you go to bed, or if you are away from home overnight.

If you are using extension chords, make sure they are rated for outdoor use. Make sure your Christmas lights are also rated for exterior use.

Tape chords down that cross any walkways.

Know your electrical load. Amps x volts = Maximum wattage.

Find the amps by checking the outlet’s corresponding breaker (in the breaker box). Multiply the number of amps by 120 (most homes have 120 volts that run through an outlet). The result is the maximum wattage a circuit can handle. A 15-amp circuit can handle lights totaling 1,800 watts, and a 20-amp circuit can handle 2,400 watts.

25-bulb strands can be daisy chained (usually up to 3 strands). Never daisy-chain strands with 100 lights.

When bulbs burn out, you need to replace them, otherwise more current is driven to the other bulbs, which will ultimately shorten their lives, and potentially overpower them.

Lights that use C7 and C9 bulbs are coned-shaped, slightly larger, and if a bulb fails it only effects itself.

LED’s light strands will save energy and won’t overheat. You can also daisy-chain more of them together.

For every 1 foot of tree height, you need 100 lights. String lights in the center of the tree so it looks like it is lit from within.

Always follow manufacturers guidelines in regard to safety instructions.

To store lights, find a stiff piece of cardboard, then cut a slit every inch all the way down on both sides. Start wrapping at one end and go from end to end, sticking light strings in each slot as you wrap the lights. Another trick is to wrap them around an old ball- wrap 5 times in one direction, turn the ball 90 degrees and repeat.

If you are looking for some Christmas light hanging inspiration, look no further…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjmNd12dmfE&list=PLDDF5790468E72335

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

CA PRO HOME INSPECTION, Santa Barbara, CA

To schedule a professional home inspection, or for maintenance issues, please contact us at-

blogger@caprohomeinspection.com

w 805-284-9437
* Same day reports* AHIT Certified* Insured* Santa Barbara based home inspector

Why Won't My Heater Turn On?

How to troubleshoot a furnace that will not start.

Winter is just around the corner and people are starting to turn on their heaters/furnace… but no heat!

These steps may seem simple, but I’ve been called out multiple times already to look at 'broken' furnaces that just needed their pilot lights relit. Here is a checklist to run through-

1. Is the gas to the furnace turned on? The supply pipe handle should be parallel to the gas line.
2. Check the pilot light, and follow the unit’s instructions to relight (FYI clean any dust away that may have accumulated over the summer).
3. Has the circuit breaker to the gas or electric unit tripped? Reset if necessary. 
   
4. Check the thermostat. For electrical thermostats-
   1. Make sure the heat function is on and the thermostat temperature is set at least 5 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Works… great! Fails… next…
   2. Turn off power to the furnace, remove the thermostat cover check the battery, fuse (replace if expired or damaged), and clean off any dust with a small brush or pressurized air. Turn power back on and attempt to turn the furnace on. Works… great! Fails… next…
   3. With the power off, unscrew the red and white wires from their terminals (or the wires labeled “R” or “Rh” and “W”), and wrap those wires together. Turn power on. If the furnace ignites, then the thermostat is defective (replace thermostat).
      1. If the furnace does not light, then check that there is continuity (electrical test to determine if an electrical path can be established between two points) from the wires to the furnace. If continuity test fails, call a qualified technician to assist.

Hope this information helps you and your clients. And if you need help lighting pilots or testing a thermostat, I’m available to help :-)

Sincerely,
Kelsey

CA Pro Home Inspection, Home Inspection & Maintenance
To schedule a professional home inspection, or for maintenance issues, please contact me at-
blogger@caprohomeinspection.com
w 805-284-9437

* Same day reports
* AHIT Certified
* Insured
* Santa Barbara based home inspector

What's Up With My Loo!

Many people seem to have a phobia about lifting their toilet tank cover- but many problems with noisy toilets (the loo!), constant running water, and overfilling are really a very quick homeowner fix. So take a peak under the toilet tank lid with us...



RUNNING TOILET
Often people will 'jiggle' the toilet handle (trip lever) to stop toilet water running.

1. The problem is usually the toilet flush valve (flapper) chain getting caught under the flapper, preventing the flapper from sealing the tank drain. Simply adjust the length of chain so it dose not get caught in the flapper.
Sometimes the float-ball may also get caught on the flapper chain, requiring you to slightly bend the float-ball arm to prevent the chain from catching.

2. The float-ball may be set too high, causing the toilet to continually fill with water. You can lower the height of the float by adjusting the screws on top of the ballcock; or for floats attached to the ballcock, via adjusting the rod height (see pic below).

3. Finally the plastic flush valve (flapper) may have worn and not sealing the tank drain- so replace the flapper.

Link to good photo instruction on how to fix these toilet issues.

Float on ballcock: adjust rod by pinching clip

Float ball: adjust via screws on top of ballcock

NOISES WHEN TOILET FILLS
Usually this means it is time to replace the ballcock- it's not sealing correctly so is creating noisy vibrations. This is a really helpful video link to replacing a ballcock (easy 10 min job).

So don't put up with a malfunctioning toilet... take a peak under the lid and usually you will be able to fix the problem in under 5 minutes!

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Thanks for reading our blog. To schedule a home inspection please visit CA Pro Home Inspection, servicing Santa Barbara, Ventura and Los Angeles Counties, ph (805) 284-9437, blogger@caprohomeinspection.com