Evolving commercial drone use laws

I hope you are having a prosperous summer!

Although not directly related to home inspections, I wanted to share with you updates to FAA commercial drone use law as I know some of you are using drones for inspections and property video montages.

The FAA has released a new set of rules for commercial use drones weighing up to 55lb that come in to effect August 29, 2016. Click here for the official summary.

• Must be 16 years old and have a remote pilot certificate with a small UAS rating, or be directly supervised by someone with such certification.
• To qualify for a remote pilot certification, pass an FAA approved aeronautical knowledge test, or have a non-student Part 61 pilot certificate (TSA conducts a security background check).
• Operators to ensure drone is safe before flying.
• Use limited to daylight hours.
• Fly up to 400' in the air, or higher if within 400' of a structure.

Last year, California Governor Jerry Brown vetoed SB142 that attempted to restrict the use of drones flying over private property. Here is a link to an informative article by Dirk Dallas on the issues facing drone regulation in California.

On a side note, use of drones for deliveries is still banned, but the FAA has allowed Google's X Division to test their drone delivery system, Project Wing.

CA Pro Home Inspection: helping clients make more informed decisions

Safety Glass 101

I inspected a duplex last week that had glass sliding doors. The doors were in poor condition, but I was more concerned that they did not contain safety glass. Safety glass is designed to minimize physical damage in case of glass breakage. Safety glass must contain an identifying label that can not be removed (acid-etched, sand blasted etc). Safety glass is usually laminated or tempered. 

 

Laminated glass is two layers of glass sandwiched with a laminate. The laminate is the reason why the pieces are held together when it is broken. 

Sometimes you can identify unlabeled laminate glass by examining the reflection of your hand or some other object- you should see two different images.



Tempered glass is almost 5 to 10 times stronger when compared to its untempered counterpart. Tempered glass shatters into tiny fragments with rounded edges when it’s broken. It can take a higher load and deflects further before breaking, but can not be reworked.

Tempered glass can also be identified through polarized glasses when viewed from an angle. Black lines, a result of the heating and cooling process, should appear as your angle from the glass surface increases when you approach the glass’s side.

However, when uncertain, and in potential hazardous areas, I always assume that glass is not safety glass and recommend further assessment.

If you are interested in more information on when safety glass is required, here is a link to the International Residential Code R308.4

CA Pro Home Inspection, serving Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties

What's Wrong With This Panel?

Wire size? Cloth sheathing? Aluminum wiring? Crowded?
No.

This electrical panel box does not have a main disconnect breaker to switch off all power. There must be a way to switch off all electrical service to the home.

There are some instances where not having a main breaker is acceptable, as long as power to the panel can be shut-off in 6 throws or less (the "Six Throw Rule"). But this panel has 12 breakers, and has been upgraded (i.e. no 'grandfather rule'... and even so, you would be well advised to install a main disconnect breaker).
 
In my home inspection report I listed this issue as a 'Potential Safety Hazard' and recommended that a licensed electrician evaluate the panel.

CA PRO HOME INSPECTION

AC Condenser Maintenance

While we are enjoying the mild Spring weather, it’s a good time to do some basic maintenance on your air conditioner unit. Checking coolant (refrigerant levels), can only be done by a professional. However, cleaning your AC condenser is an important step to maintaining an AC’s efficiency. For exterior units- Shut off the electrical power to the air conditioner (flip breaker, or pull out the disconnect). Check that there is no rust in your electrical panel (would indicate water intrusion and should be inspected by an electrician). AC units need unobstructed air flow. So remove any debris from around the AC condenser unit. Using a garden hose, spray water over the condenser unit and coils. In a pump-sprayer, follow manufacturer instructions in mixing a coil cleaner (like Nu-Brite, CalClean) with water; and spray the condenser and coils. Then rinse off with water. This process will clean a significant amount of dirt from your AC condenser, making it more efficient. Additionally, if your AC coil fins are damaged, you can straighten them with a fin tool. Straighten fins greatly improves air flow. Once completed don’t forget to restore power to your AC. Lastly check your filter inside your home (usually situated in the return air vent), replace if dirty.

Hot Water Heater Maintenance

Performing annual maintenance on your hot water heater (HWH) will prolong its life, prevent leaks, and help protect your plumbing.

Sediment collects in the HWH impacting its efficiency- and will literally disintegrate the heaters interior lining that causes leaks.

To complete this maintenance task you’ll need a hose, bucket, gloves and towel.

1. Turn off the power to the HWH- usually gas, or if electric, the circuit breaker.
2. Turn off the in-take cold water to the HWH.
3. Attach a hose to the water drain spigot at the bottom of the HWH. Place the other end of the hose to where you want the water to drain, e.g. a garden bed, laundry sink… depending on the size of your HWH, it’s going to be a lot of HOT water, at least 30-40 gallons. Turn open the spigot (sometimes you need a flathead screwdriver to do this).
4. Open the pressure release valve to allow air in to the tank to assist with complete drainage.
5. When drained, turn on the water to flush any remaining sediment until water runs clearly.
6. Refilling the tank- close the drain spigot and remove the hose.
7. Close the pressure release valve.
8. Turn on the water to allow the tank to be filled.
9. Once the tank is full you can turn back on the gas, or electricity. Do not turn on power/heat until tank is full otherwise you may damage the heating elements.

There is one more step you can take that may double the lifespan of your HWH; and that is to every five years replace the anode rod inside the heater. The anode rod’s job is to attract corrosive elements in the water, thereby protecting the HWH lining (that’s why some call it a ‘sacrificial rod’). Here is an informative video on replacing a HWH anode.

Reduce your pressure... eat cookies!

Home water regulator

A water pressure regulator valve is usually positioned on a home’s main water supply to regulate water pressure from the water company/City to the home. When inspecting homes, I attach a pressure gauge to a spigot or faucet to measure a home’s water pressure. Ideally you want the pressure to be under 80psi. Why? Too much pressure may cause pipes to leak and damage water using appliances. Too little water pressure may cause you frustration trying to have a shower!

Making sure the water pressure regulator is working and set correctly is usually an easy fix. A pressure gauge costs about $5-$10, and an adjustable wrench (maybe a flathead screwdriver) is all you need to adjust the regulator. Click here to view a “how-to” video.

Let them eat cookies!

It’s Girl Scout Cookie Season and my Troop is selling cookies to raise funds for our activities and service projects. Please contact me with a list of cookies you would like to order. We will deliver to your office free of charge! Appreciate your support.

To schedule a home inspection please call me 805-896-8301, or email me (I might even turn up with a complimentary box of cookies!)

Sincerely,Kelsey

www.CA Pro Home Inspection.com

Servicing Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties, California

Why Won't My Heater Turn On?

How to troubleshoot a furnace that will not start.

Winter is just around the corner and people are starting to turn on their heaters/furnace… but no heat!

These steps may seem simple, but I’ve been called out multiple times already to look at 'broken' furnaces that just needed their pilot lights relit. Here is a checklist to run through-

1. Is the gas to the furnace turned on? The supply pipe handle should be parallel to the gas line.
2. Check the pilot light, and follow the unit’s instructions to relight (FYI clean any dust away that may have accumulated over the summer).
3. Has the circuit breaker to the gas or electric unit tripped? Reset if necessary. 
   
4. Check the thermostat. For electrical thermostats-
   1. Make sure the heat function is on and the thermostat temperature is set at least 5 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Works… great! Fails… next…
   2. Turn off power to the furnace, remove the thermostat cover check the battery, fuse (replace if expired or damaged), and clean off any dust with a small brush or pressurized air. Turn power back on and attempt to turn the furnace on. Works… great! Fails… next…
   3. With the power off, unscrew the red and white wires from their terminals (or the wires labeled “R” or “Rh” and “W”), and wrap those wires together. Turn power on. If the furnace ignites, then the thermostat is defective (replace thermostat).
      1. If the furnace does not light, then check that there is continuity (electrical test to determine if an electrical path can be established between two points) from the wires to the furnace. If continuity test fails, call a qualified technician to assist.

Hope this information helps you and your clients. And if you need help lighting pilots or testing a thermostat, I’m available to help :-)

Sincerely,
Kelsey

CA Pro Home Inspection, Home Inspection & Maintenance
To schedule a professional home inspection, or for maintenance issues, please contact me at-
blogger@caprohomeinspection.com
w 805-284-9437

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* Santa Barbara based home inspector

What's Up With My Loo!

Many people seem to have a phobia about lifting their toilet tank cover- but many problems with noisy toilets (the loo!), constant running water, and overfilling are really a very quick homeowner fix. So take a peak under the toilet tank lid with us...



RUNNING TOILET
Often people will 'jiggle' the toilet handle (trip lever) to stop toilet water running.

1. The problem is usually the toilet flush valve (flapper) chain getting caught under the flapper, preventing the flapper from sealing the tank drain. Simply adjust the length of chain so it dose not get caught in the flapper.
Sometimes the float-ball may also get caught on the flapper chain, requiring you to slightly bend the float-ball arm to prevent the chain from catching.

2. The float-ball may be set too high, causing the toilet to continually fill with water. You can lower the height of the float by adjusting the screws on top of the ballcock; or for floats attached to the ballcock, via adjusting the rod height (see pic below).

3. Finally the plastic flush valve (flapper) may have worn and not sealing the tank drain- so replace the flapper.

Link to good photo instruction on how to fix these toilet issues.

Float on ballcock: adjust rod by pinching clip

Float ball: adjust via screws on top of ballcock

NOISES WHEN TOILET FILLS
Usually this means it is time to replace the ballcock- it's not sealing correctly so is creating noisy vibrations. This is a really helpful video link to replacing a ballcock (easy 10 min job).

So don't put up with a malfunctioning toilet... take a peak under the lid and usually you will be able to fix the problem in under 5 minutes!

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Thanks for reading our blog. To schedule a home inspection please visit CA Pro Home Inspection, servicing Santa Barbara, Ventura and Los Angeles Counties, ph (805) 284-9437, blogger@caprohomeinspection.com