Evolving commercial drone use laws

I hope you are having a prosperous summer!

Although not directly related to home inspections, I wanted to share with you updates to FAA commercial drone use law as I know some of you are using drones for inspections and property video montages.

The FAA has released a new set of rules for commercial use drones weighing up to 55lb that come in to effect August 29, 2016. Click here for the official summary.

• Must be 16 years old and have a remote pilot certificate with a small UAS rating, or be directly supervised by someone with such certification.
• To qualify for a remote pilot certification, pass an FAA approved aeronautical knowledge test, or have a non-student Part 61 pilot certificate (TSA conducts a security background check).
• Operators to ensure drone is safe before flying.
• Use limited to daylight hours.
• Fly up to 400' in the air, or higher if within 400' of a structure.

Last year, California Governor Jerry Brown vetoed SB142 that attempted to restrict the use of drones flying over private property. Here is a link to an informative article by Dirk Dallas on the issues facing drone regulation in California.

On a side note, use of drones for deliveries is still banned, but the FAA has allowed Google's X Division to test their drone delivery system, Project Wing.

CA Pro Home Inspection: helping clients make more informed decisions

Safety Glass 101

I inspected a duplex last week that had glass sliding doors. The doors were in poor condition, but I was more concerned that they did not contain safety glass. Safety glass is designed to minimize physical damage in case of glass breakage. Safety glass must contain an identifying label that can not be removed (acid-etched, sand blasted etc). Safety glass is usually laminated or tempered. 

 

Laminated glass is two layers of glass sandwiched with a laminate. The laminate is the reason why the pieces are held together when it is broken. 

Sometimes you can identify unlabeled laminate glass by examining the reflection of your hand or some other object- you should see two different images.



Tempered glass is almost 5 to 10 times stronger when compared to its untempered counterpart. Tempered glass shatters into tiny fragments with rounded edges when it’s broken. It can take a higher load and deflects further before breaking, but can not be reworked.

Tempered glass can also be identified through polarized glasses when viewed from an angle. Black lines, a result of the heating and cooling process, should appear as your angle from the glass surface increases when you approach the glass’s side.

However, when uncertain, and in potential hazardous areas, I always assume that glass is not safety glass and recommend further assessment.

If you are interested in more information on when safety glass is required, here is a link to the International Residential Code R308.4

CA Pro Home Inspection, serving Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties

Inadequate combustion air

COMBUSTION AIR

There are many different elements I inspect when examining gas furnaces- leaks, missing drip-leg and shut-off valve, rusting, inappropriate materials, burner flame patterns, heat exchanger damage etc. Another thing I check is the presence of combustion air.

In older homes, I find gas furnaces in small, poorly vented closets, but sometimes, even an enclosed garage with a gas water heater, gas furnace, and gas dryer may not have adequate combustion air.

For a furnace to work properly, it must have an adequate supply of combustion air to ‘feed’ the furnace. Gas furnaces also require a secondary source of air (‘draft air’) to maintain an appropriate exhaust - to help maintain chimney draft.





What’s an adequate supply of combustion air?
Standard of practice is 50 cubic feet of air for every cubic foot of gas (i).

If a gas furnace is rated at 100,000 BTU’s per hour, it will burn approximately 100 cubic feet of gas per hour (one cubic foot of natural gas contains about 1,000 BTUs).

Therefore, it will need approximately 5,000 cubic feet of combustion air.


Total appliance BTU’s / 1,000 x 50 = cubic feet required


As you can see, a small closet that has no door vent, and a small opening in the ceiling, may not have enough combustion air for the furnace to function correctly.

Why is this important?
Inadequate air intake can lead to increased levels of carbon monoxide (CO- a poisonous gas). Secondly, a lack of ‘draft air’ is likely to result in backdraft. This means combustion product (CO) can go back in to the room, rather than up the chimney/flue (because the room is under low pressure having been starved for air because its been pulled in to the furnace for the combustion and dilution process).

To test for backdrafting, you can put your hand in to the base of the draft-hood, you should be able to feel cool air being drawn in. If you feel hot, wet exhaust air, then spillage/backdrafting is taking place. Rust around the draft hood may also indicate a chronic backdrafting problem.

Making sure a gas furnace (and other gas appliances) have appropriate combustion air is crucial to the safety of the home owner.

Helpful links-
http://osfm.fire.ca.gov/strucfireengineer/pdf/bml/Frequently%20asked%20questions%20on%20Carbon%20Monoxide.pdf

http://www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm
 
Source (i): Principals of Home Inspection, Carson Dunlop & Associates, 2008

What's Wrong With This Panel?

Wire size? Cloth sheathing? Aluminum wiring? Crowded?
No.

This electrical panel box does not have a main disconnect breaker to switch off all power. There must be a way to switch off all electrical service to the home.

There are some instances where not having a main breaker is acceptable, as long as power to the panel can be shut-off in 6 throws or less (the "Six Throw Rule"). But this panel has 12 breakers, and has been upgraded (i.e. no 'grandfather rule'... and even so, you would be well advised to install a main disconnect breaker).
 
In my home inspection report I listed this issue as a 'Potential Safety Hazard' and recommended that a licensed electrician evaluate the panel.

CA PRO HOME INSPECTION

AC Condenser Maintenance

While we are enjoying the mild Spring weather, it’s a good time to do some basic maintenance on your air conditioner unit. Checking coolant (refrigerant levels), can only be done by a professional. However, cleaning your AC condenser is an important step to maintaining an AC’s efficiency. For exterior units- Shut off the electrical power to the air conditioner (flip breaker, or pull out the disconnect). Check that there is no rust in your electrical panel (would indicate water intrusion and should be inspected by an electrician). AC units need unobstructed air flow. So remove any debris from around the AC condenser unit. Using a garden hose, spray water over the condenser unit and coils. In a pump-sprayer, follow manufacturer instructions in mixing a coil cleaner (like Nu-Brite, CalClean) with water; and spray the condenser and coils. Then rinse off with water. This process will clean a significant amount of dirt from your AC condenser, making it more efficient. Additionally, if your AC coil fins are damaged, you can straighten them with a fin tool. Straighten fins greatly improves air flow. Once completed don’t forget to restore power to your AC. Lastly check your filter inside your home (usually situated in the return air vent), replace if dirty.

Hot Water Heater Maintenance

Performing annual maintenance on your hot water heater (HWH) will prolong its life, prevent leaks, and help protect your plumbing.

Sediment collects in the HWH impacting its efficiency- and will literally disintegrate the heaters interior lining that causes leaks.

To complete this maintenance task you’ll need a hose, bucket, gloves and towel.

1. Turn off the power to the HWH- usually gas, or if electric, the circuit breaker.
2. Turn off the in-take cold water to the HWH.
3. Attach a hose to the water drain spigot at the bottom of the HWH. Place the other end of the hose to where you want the water to drain, e.g. a garden bed, laundry sink… depending on the size of your HWH, it’s going to be a lot of HOT water, at least 30-40 gallons. Turn open the spigot (sometimes you need a flathead screwdriver to do this).
4. Open the pressure release valve to allow air in to the tank to assist with complete drainage.
5. When drained, turn on the water to flush any remaining sediment until water runs clearly.
6. Refilling the tank- close the drain spigot and remove the hose.
7. Close the pressure release valve.
8. Turn on the water to allow the tank to be filled.
9. Once the tank is full you can turn back on the gas, or electricity. Do not turn on power/heat until tank is full otherwise you may damage the heating elements.

There is one more step you can take that may double the lifespan of your HWH; and that is to every five years replace the anode rod inside the heater. The anode rod’s job is to attract corrosive elements in the water, thereby protecting the HWH lining (that’s why some call it a ‘sacrificial rod’). Here is an informative video on replacing a HWH anode.

Reduce your pressure... eat cookies!

Home water regulator

A water pressure regulator valve is usually positioned on a home’s main water supply to regulate water pressure from the water company/City to the home. When inspecting homes, I attach a pressure gauge to a spigot or faucet to measure a home’s water pressure. Ideally you want the pressure to be under 80psi. Why? Too much pressure may cause pipes to leak and damage water using appliances. Too little water pressure may cause you frustration trying to have a shower!

Making sure the water pressure regulator is working and set correctly is usually an easy fix. A pressure gauge costs about $5-$10, and an adjustable wrench (maybe a flathead screwdriver) is all you need to adjust the regulator. Click here to view a “how-to” video.

Let them eat cookies!

It’s Girl Scout Cookie Season and my Troop is selling cookies to raise funds for our activities and service projects. Please contact me with a list of cookies you would like to order. We will deliver to your office free of charge! Appreciate your support.

To schedule a home inspection please call me 805-896-8301, or email me (I might even turn up with a complimentary box of cookies!)

Sincerely,Kelsey

www.CA Pro Home Inspection.com

Servicing Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties, California